John Muir Trail Guide: How to Plan a Permit Application and Day-by-Day Itinerary

The John Muir Trail is one of the hardest wilderness permits to secure in the country, and one of the most rewarding routes to actually walk. The challenge is not finding information about it. The challenge is turning that information into a coordinated plan you can act on before the permit window closes and before your group commits to dates.

This guide covers the permit system in full, a realistic day-by-day framework for the full 211-mile route, and what you need to have figured out before you ever submit an application.

In this guide

• What the John Muir Trail Actually Is
• Understanding the JMT Permit System
• Planning Your JMT Timeline Before the Permit Application
• Day-by-Day JMT Itinerary Framework (Southbound, 21 Days)
• Gear and Fitness Considerations
• Resupply Strategy in Detail
• Putting the Plan Together
• Frequently asked questions

What the John Muir Trail Actually Is

The John Muir Trail runs 211 miles through the Sierra Nevada from Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley south to the summit of Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the contiguous United States at 14,505 feet. The route passes through Yosemite National Park, Ansel Adams Wilderness, John Muir Wilderness, Kings Canyon National Park, and Sequoia National Park.

Most hikers complete it northbound or southbound over 17 to 25 days, depending on pace, fitness, and resupply strategy. The terrain is high and exposed. You will cross multiple passes above 11,000 feet, including Forester Pass at 13,153 feet, the highest point on the trail. In heavy snow years, passes can stay buried into July.

This is not a beginner trail. It is a serious multi-day backcountry route that rewards thorough preparation.

Understanding the JMT Permit System

The permit system is the first thing to get right, because it shapes everything else about your planning timeline.

Which Permit You Actually Need

A JMT permit is a Yosemite Wilderness Permit, specifically for the Happy Isles to Half Dome trailhead zone if you are hiking southbound. This is the most competitive entry point on the trail. Northbound hikers starting from Whitney Portal need a Mount Whitney Zone permit through the Inyo National Forest permit system, which operates separately.

The two systems have different lottery windows, different quota structures, and different rules. Know which direction you are hiking before you apply.

The Yosemite Wilderness Permit (Southbound)

Yosemite uses a lottery for its most popular trailheads, including Happy Isles. The lottery opens in mid-February for the following summer season. Applications go through Recreation.gov.

Key details for the southbound JMT:

• Entry trailhead: Happy Isles to Half Dome (trailhead code WY062)
• Quota: The daily quota for this zone is small (typically around 45 people per day), and a portion is held for walk-up permits
• Lottery window: Mid-February applications for summer dates; check Recreation.gov for the current year's exact dates
• Walk-up permits: A portion of each day's quota is held for walk-up applicants at the Yosemite Valley Wilderness Center, available starting at 11 a.m. the day before your intended start date
• Group size limit: No more than 8 people per permit

Apply for multiple date options if the system allows it. Your first-choice start date is often unavailable.

The Whitney Zone Permit (Northbound)

Northbound hikers start at Whitney Portal in the Inyo National Forest and need a Whitney Zone permit through Recreation.gov's Inyo National Forest system. The Whitney Zone lottery typically opens in February as well, with results released in March.

The Whitney Zone permit covers the Mount Whitney Trail and connecting routes, including the JMT approach from Guitar Lake. If you plan to summit Whitney as part of a northbound JMT, confirm whether your permit covers the summit day.

What Happens If You Don't Win the Lottery

Walk-up permits are real. Hikers show up at the Yosemite Valley Wilderness Center the day before their intended start and queue early. Cancellations and no-shows create availability. It is not a reliable strategy for a group with fixed travel dates, but it works for flexible solo hikers or pairs.

Alternate entry points also exist. You can enter the JMT corridor from trailheads in Inyo National Forest or Kings Canyon, bypassing the Yosemite quota entirely, and join the trail further south. These permits are less competitive. The trade-off is missing the northern section of the trail.

Planning Your JMT Timeline Before the Permit Application

Most hikers apply for a permit before their logistics are fully worked out. That is a mistake. Your permit start date determines your resupply schedule, which determines your pack weight, which affects your daily mileage. These things are connected.

Work through this sequence before you apply:

1. Choose your direction. Southbound (Yosemite to Whitney) is more common and puts the hardest terrain at the end. Northbound (Whitney to Yosemite) front-loads the high passes.
2. Set a realistic pace. Most fit hikers cover 10 to 15 miles per day on the JMT. Factor in pass days, rest days, and resupply stops.
3. Identify your resupply points. The main options are Tuolumne Meadows, Red's Meadow, Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR), Muir Trail Ranch (MTR), and Independence or Lone Pine for a Whitney exit. Each has different logistics, costs, and package size limits.
4. Choose your start date range. Give yourself a window of 5 to 7 days for the lottery application. Shoulder dates in late August or September are often less competitive than peak July windows.

If you want to see how the pieces connect before committing to dates, Xavier at app.xploreum.io/chat can build a day-by-day Xpedition from your starting point, group size, pace, and resupply preferences. It will not submit your permit application, but it will show you whether your timeline is realistic before you lock in a date.

Day-by-Day JMT Itinerary Framework (Southbound, 21 Days)

This is a framework, not a fixed schedule. Adjust mileage based on your fitness, conditions, and how you feel on the trail. Campsites require you to stay at least 100 feet from water sources and follow food storage regulations throughout the route.

Days 1 to 3: Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows (approx. 22 miles)

You start at Happy Isles and gain significant elevation immediately. The climb out of the valley through Little Yosemite Valley is steep and crowded early in the season. Camping near Half Dome is possible but requires a separate Half Dome permit if you plan to summit. Most JMT hikers skip the summit and push toward Cathedral Lakes.

Tuolumne Meadows at mile 22 is your first resupply option. The store carries basic provisions. If you shipped a resupply box, it goes to the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office.

Days 4 to 6: Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow (approx. 38 miles)

This stretch crosses Donahue Pass at 11,056 feet, the boundary between Yosemite and the Ansel Adams Wilderness. The terrain opens up considerably south of the park boundary. Island Pass and Banner Peak come into view, and camping near Thousand Island Lake is one of the most scenic nights on the entire route.

Red's Meadow at roughly mile 60 has a resort, café, and shuttle access to Mammoth Lakes. It is the most logistically flexible resupply point on the trail.

Days 7 to 10: Red's Meadow to Vermilion Valley Resort (approx. 40 miles)

This section crosses Silver Pass at 10,900 feet and passes through the Mono Creek drainage. The terrain is less dramatic than the sections north and south, but the mileage is solid and the crowds thin considerably.

Vermilion Valley Resort requires either a ferry across Lake Edison or a longer trail approach. The ferry schedule is limited. Confirm it before you plan your arrival day. VVR holds resupply packages and has a small store, hot food, and a bar. Many hikers take a zero day here.

Days 11 to 14: VVR to Muir Trail Ranch (approx. 28 miles)

Selden Pass at 10,900 feet, then the long descent into the South Fork San Joaquin drainage. Muir Trail Ranch is a private working ranch that holds resupply buckets for a fee. It is not a store. You must ship a bucket in advance with everything you need. MTR does not accept USPS; use UPS or FedEx.

The approach to Evolution Valley begins in this section. Evolution Meadow is one of the most beautiful camps on the trail.

Days 15 to 17: Muir Trail Ranch to Upper Basin (approx. 30 miles)

Evolution Valley leads to the climb over Muir Pass at 11,955 feet. The stone hut at the top is a historic shelter, not an emergency cabin, though hikers do use it in storms. The descent into Le Conte Canyon is long, and the Kings Canyon section begins here.

Upper Basin is remote and exposed. Water is plentiful, but weather can change quickly at elevation.

Days 18 to 20: Upper Basin to Guitar Lake (approx. 35 miles)

Mather Pass at 12,100 feet, then Pinchot Pass at 12,130 feet, then Glen Pass at 11,978 feet. This is the most pass-dense section of the trail and the most physically demanding stretch for most hikers. Rae Lakes is a popular camping area with a ranger station.

Forester Pass at 13,153 feet comes at the end of this section. It is the highest point on the trail and often snow-covered into July. Traction devices or an ice axe may be required in early season.

Guitar Lake sits at 11,460 feet below the Whitney massif and is the standard camp before a summit push.

Day 21: Guitar Lake to Whitney Summit and Portal (approx. 15 miles)

Start before dawn for the summit. The climb from Guitar Lake to the top via the JMT route is approximately 4 miles with 2,000 feet of gain. The summit register, stone shelter, and views are the reward for the full 211 miles.

The descent to Whitney Portal is 11 miles on the Main Whitney Trail. It is long and hard on the knees. Most hikers arrange a shuttle or have a vehicle waiting at the portal.

Gear and Fitness Considerations

The JMT is a technical backcountry route by distance and elevation, not by technical climbing. You do not need ropes or climbing gear for the standard route. You do need:

• Bear canister. Required in Yosemite and recommended throughout. The Garcia or BV500 fit most packs.
• Water treatment. Filter or chemical treatment for all water sources.
• Navigation tools. Gaia GPS or CalTopo for offline topo maps. Cell service is nonexistent for most of the route.
• Layers for cold nights. Even in August, Guitar Lake and Forester Pass camps can drop below freezing.
• Trekking poles. Not required, but the descents from Forester and Mather will make you glad you brought them.

Pack weight matters more on the JMT than on most trails because of the cumulative mileage. A base weight above 20 pounds will slow you down measurably by day 10.

Resupply Strategy in Detail

Resupply decisions are the most underestimated part of JMT planning. Most first-timers either over-pack or under-plan their resupply windows.

The standard 4-stop strategy (Tuolumne, Red's Meadow, VVR, MTR) works for a 21-day trip at moderate pace. Faster hikers sometimes skip VVR and carry more from Red's Meadow to MTR. Slower hikers sometimes add a resupply at Independence via a hitch from Kearsarge Pass.

Ship boxes well in advance. MTR typically closes for resupply packages after a specific date in late summer. Check the current season's cutoff before you ship.

For a deeper look at structuring resupply logistics on a multi-day backcountry route, the guide on planning a multi-day backcountry trip with campsites and resupply covers the decision framework in detail.

Putting the Plan Together

The JMT requires you to coordinate permits, resupply boxes, transportation at both ends, gear, and a realistic daily mileage plan, all before you take a single step on the trail. Most of the planning friction is not knowing what to do. It is connecting the pieces so they work together.

If you want to see your JMT Xpedition mapped day by day before you commit to dates, Xavier can organize the route, driving legs to the trailhead, resupply timing, and campsite sequencing into one connected plan. Start at app.xploreum.io/chat or learn more about how the platform handles backcountry trip planning at xploreum.io.

For a comparison of the apps and tools that work alongside this kind of planning, see the guides on best AI trip planning apps for backcountry hiking and best apps for hiking and camping trip planning.

Frequently asked questions

How competitive is the JMT permit lottery?

The Happy Isles to Half Dome trailhead zone is one of the most competitive wilderness permits in the country. Demand significantly exceeds the daily quota, particularly for July and early August start dates. Late August and September dates are less competitive. Apply for multiple date options if the system allows it, and have a walk-up or alternate entry strategy as a backup.

When does the JMT permit lottery open?

The Yosemite Wilderness Permit lottery for summer dates typically opens in mid-February through Recreation.gov. The Inyo National Forest Whitney Zone lottery for northbound hikers opens on a similar timeline. Check Recreation.gov directly for the current year's specific dates and application window.

How long does it take to hike the full JMT?

Most hikers complete the 211-mile route in 17 to 25 days. A pace of 10 miles per day gives you a 21-day trip with buffer days for passes and rest. Fit hikers with lighter packs can push 15 miles per day and finish in under 17 days. Slower paces are possible but require more food and a tighter resupply plan.

Do I need a permit for the entire trail or just the entry point?

You need a wilderness permit for your entry trailhead and entry date. That permit covers your travel through the wilderness areas along the route. You do not need separate permits for each wilderness area you pass through, but you must follow the regulations of each land agency, including food storage requirements that vary by zone.

What is the best resupply strategy for a 21-day JMT trip?

The standard 4-stop strategy uses Tuolumne Meadows, Red's Meadow, Vermilion Valley Resort, and Muir Trail Ranch. Ship boxes to each location well in advance. MTR requires UPS or FedEx and has a seasonal cutoff date for receiving packages. VVR has a ferry schedule that affects your arrival day planning. Confirm logistics for each stop before you finalize your itinerary.

What navigation tools do JMT hikers use?

Gaia GPS and CalTopo are the most common tools for offline topographic maps on the JMT. Cell service is unavailable for the majority of the route. Download your maps before you leave the trailhead. A dedicated GPS device is a reliable backup. AllTrails has JMT route data, but its offline functionality depends on your subscription tier.

What is the hardest section of the JMT?

The stretch from Upper Basin through Forester Pass to Guitar Lake is physically the most demanding, combining the highest pass on the trail with the most pass crossings in a short distance. Early-season hikers may encounter snow on Forester and Mather passes that requires traction devices. The final summit push from Guitar Lake to Whitney adds significant elevation gain at the end of a very long trip.